I decided to take another trip through Peshawar, this time mostly on foot in the old city. We set off again with Saeed and a hired van.

1We began at Masjid Qasim Ali, paying our respects at the grave of my great-grandfather, Ghulam Samdani Baba, who is buried there.

The painted graves at Masjid Qasim Ali, where my great-grandfather Ghulam Samdani Baba is buried
The painted graves at Masjid Qasim Ali, where my great-grandfather Ghulam Samdani Baba is buried
The painted graves at Masjid Qasim Ali, where my great-grandfather Ghulam Samdani Baba is buried

Masjid Qasim Ali Khan is one of the oldest and most historic mosques in Peshawar. The original was built in the Mughal era, around 1630, in the reign of Shah Jahan, commissioned by Qasim Ali Khan, a trusted governor and minister who administered Peshawar. The mosque was badly damaged in the Sikh period, after which it was refurbished by Ghulam Samdani.

2From there we walked into the old walled city, through Pipal Mandi. The name comes from the pipal tree once prominent in the area — a tree held sacred by Buddhists, a sign that this spot has mattered for centuries, long before Islam reached the region. Under the Mughals, Pipal Mandi grew into a thriving marketplace thanks to Peshawar’s place on the ancient Silk Road, a hub for traders in spices, textiles and dried fruits from Central Asia, Persia and the subcontinent — goods still sold there today.

The pipal tree that gives Pipal Mandi its name, and the bazaar around it
The pipal tree that gives Pipal Mandi its name, and the bazaar around it
The pipal tree that gives Pipal Mandi its name, and the bazaar around it

We came upon a curious old house with a Star of David on its facade, set between two eyes.

The curious old house in the bazaar — a Star of David set between two eyes
The curious old house in the bazaar — a Star of David set between two eyes

3We walked on to the Sethi House, an architectural and historical gem in the heart of the old city. Also known as the Sethi Mohallah, it was built in 1884 by the Sethi family, a prominent and wealthy merchant dynasty whose trade along the Silk Road reached Central Asia, Afghanistan, India and beyond.

The Sethi House — a merchant mansion of carved wood, frescoes and stained glass
The Sethi House — a merchant mansion of carved wood, frescoes and stained glass
The Sethi House — a merchant mansion of carved wood, frescoes and stained glass

The house is a classic blend of Central Asian and Mughal influences — intricate woodwork, frescoes and geometric patterns, with elaborately carved wooden doors, balconies and jharokas (overhanging enclosed balconies). It offers a glimpse into the luxurious life of 19th-century Peshawar’s elite.

Elaborately carved wooden doorways in the Sethi Mohallah
Elaborately carved wooden doorways in the Sethi Mohallah

4Passing Gor Khattri, we saw a plaque marking it as the residence of Paolo Avitabile, the Italian governor of Peshawar from 1838 to 1842.

Gor Khattri, and the plaque marking the residence of Paolo Avitabile
Gor Khattri, and the plaque marking the residence of Paolo Avitabile
Gor Khattri, and the plaque marking the residence of Paolo Avitabile

5Then the van took us to Namak Mandi — the “Salt Market,” one of Peshawar’s most iconic and historic quarters. We had not come to eat, though, but to see the Namak Mandi gemstone market, one of the most renowned gem-trading hubs in Pakistan, famous internationally for the quality of its stones and the skill of its craftsmen.

The gemstone market of Namak Mandi — tourmaline, emerald, lapis and topaz from across the north
The gemstone market of Namak Mandi — tourmaline, emerald, lapis and topaz from across the north
The gemstone market of Namak Mandi — tourmaline, emerald, lapis and topaz from across the north

The market deals in a wide range of natural, untreated gemstones: tourmaline, aquamarine, garnet and quartz from the northern areas; emeralds from the Swat Valley; rubies from Gilgit-Baltistan and Afghanistan; blue sapphires from Hunza and Kashmir; lapis lazuli from Afghanistan; and golden and pink topaz from Katlang in Mardan.

6After this we headed home.