Another fine day trip is to the monastery at Jamalgarhi, near Mardan. In the Mardan District of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, it is an important archaeological site, rich in the legacy of the Gandhara civilisation and the Buddhist heritage of the region.
1We hired a van through our trusted Saeed and made the trip. It can also be done in a day from Islamabad.
2The monastery was built on a high ridge, commanding the surrounding country. Its position was strategic, set along the ancient trade routes that linked South Asia with Central Asia.
The views from the top are captivating. One imagines the elevation standing for spiritual ascent, and well suited to a monastic life of meditation and study — while also helping to guard against invaders who so often came by way of the Khyber Pass.
The site was rediscovered in the 19th century by British archaeologists, including Sir Alexander Cunningham. Excavations revealed well-preserved structures and artefacts — sculptures, inscriptions and coins that offer valuable insight into Gandharan civilisation. The complex shows the typical Gandharan plan, with stupas, chapels, monastic cells and assembly halls. Unlike Ranigat, the van can drive to the top, so there is no long climb.
Though not yet a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Jamalgarhi has been proposed for inclusion for its archaeological and historical importance. It is protected under Pakistan’s Antiquities Act, and efforts have been made to preserve its remains.
3Afterwards we ate chapli kebab at a local shop and headed home.
