Shahbazgarhi, in the Mardan District of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, is a site of great historical significance, above all for its association with the Mauryan Empire and the famous edicts of Emperor Ashoka (reigned 268–232 BCE). These inscriptions, written in the Kharosthi script, are engraved on large rock boulders, and reflect Ashoka’s policy of Dhamma — morality, non-violence, tolerance, social welfare, and respect for all living beings.
1The trip can be done in a day, but you need to plan ahead — we left ourselves too little time for the second site.
2From the car park at Shahbazgarhi it is a short walk to the rocks bearing the edicts. The inscriptions can still be read, though it is sad that in places tourists have scratched their own names onto this ancient site.
There was once an incident when some villagers poured whitewash over the stone — offended that schoolchildren visiting the rock could look down into the houses below and disturb the “sanctity” of the homes.
3From here we drove to the village of Nogram Killi in Buner to see Ranigat, which belongs to the first to sixth century CE. Set on top of a ridge, it holds the remains of the region’s largest Buddhist monastic complex — stupas, monasteries, shrines, drainage networks and other buildings. A 2,500-year-old site of the Gandhara civilisation, it bears rich evidence of the area’s Buddhist past.
4Like other monasteries in the region, Ranigat sits atop a hill. The climb has been eased with a path and some steps, but it is tiring still, and there are wonderful views along the way. The name comes from “Rani” (queen) and the Pashto “ghata” (rock), after a large rock on the hilltop.
5Once you reach the top, an entrance leads through into the town proper.
6Excavations here were carried out with the help of the University of Kyoto, which published its findings as Ranigat: A Buddhist Site in Gandhara, Pakistan, Surveyed 1983–1992.
7After this we headed back home.