The monastery at Takht Bhai, in the Mardan District of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, is a remarkable relic of ancient Gandhara and a UNESCO World Heritage Site — celebrated for its excellent state of preservation and its significance as a centre of Buddhist learning and culture. It was established in the 1st century CE during the Kushan Empire and remained in use until the 7th century CE. It makes an easy day trip from Peshawar, or even from Islamabad.
1We started from Peshawar, but on the way stopped on the outskirts to see the Mughal-era Chuha Churi Bridge in Chamkani, beside an old banyan tree.
2From here we drove on to Takht Bhai. Beyond the monastery, the town is famous for its chapli kebab.
3As with most of the ancient archaeological sites in KPK, the monastery sits on top of a hill. Climbing to the top, you sense the quiet and calm the monks who lived there would have known.
The monastery is an extensive complex of several kinds of structure:
- Stupas — several, used for worship and to house relics, reflecting the Gandhara style that blends Indian, Greek and Persian influences.
- Monastic cells — small chambers where monks lived and meditated, a window onto the austere life of the community.
- Assembly halls — for gatherings, teaching and religious ceremonies.
- Courtyards and pathways — connecting the sections into one serene whole.
The monastery declined after the 7th century CE, as Buddhism gradually gave way in the region to Hinduism under the Hindu Shahis and, later, to the arrival of Islam. Today Takht Bhai stands as a testament to the rich spiritual heritage of ancient Gandhara, drawing scholars, historians and travellers from around the world.
After this it was a short drive home.